This week a very exciting new educational took was launched which helps educate us as consumers about some of the unjust methods that are used for gathering raw materials for many of our every day consumer products, SlaveryFootprint.org. According to this new State Department funded site: Every day tens of thousands of American women buy makeup. Every day tens of thousands of Indian children mine mica, which is the little sparkles in the makeup.

While the cosmetic industry does not require cosmetic grade micas be naturally sourced, or lab-produced, both versions are used by nearly all mineral and traditional cosmetic companies. Unlike iron oxides, which for cosmetic use must be lab-produced, there is no current way to differentiate whether a produce contains unethically sourced, mined micas, or those that are synthetically produced.

Hopefully well-respected natural beauty brands will quickly take steps to ensure that all of their micas are synthetic, but for now, this is just another reason to look for those mica-free natural cosmetics lines that use cosmetic grade iron oxides instead.

There has been some interest in this subject over the past few months, so I thought I’d take a moment to clarify:

• What are Iron Oxides? Rich, intense, pure pigments used to color natural and mineral makeups. Even most Micas are colored with Iron Oxide pigments. And in nearly every natural cosmetic line, you will find Iron Oxides. As for lines listed here on Naturally Dah’ling, you will find them in Gluten Free Beauty, Jane Iredale, Afterglow, Dr. Hauschka, Mineral Fusion and Lavera products. All of these lines are renowned for their commitment to creating pure, natural products.
• Why are they not natural? The FDA permits the use of only Cosmetic Grade/Lab-Produced Iron Oxides for use in cosmetics, as naturally occurring Iron Oxides can be contaminated with unhealthy ingredients. So in this case, natural is not the safer option.
• What are alternatives? I do not use products containing FD&C colors/dyes, and will never use them in my own product formulation, nor do any of the most respected natural beauty lines. FD&C colors are synthetically derived and can contain coal tar, they can also cause irritation (I for one experience allergic reactions to them). Food and botanical color sources could become a viable alternative in the future, but food based pigments are not currently FDA approved for use as cosmetic colorants, and could require the use of harsher preservatives. There are a couple of botanical color sources currently allowed, such as annato which produces a yellow/orange hue. But most of these colors are not favorable to creating products that match the skin tone. Most food and botanical cosmetics that I have tried did not perform like professional cosmetics, the textures, finish and adhesion were off, in my opinion.

So while your natural cosmetic products might only be 99.9% natural, as they may contain minute quantities of rich Iron Oxide pigments, they are still the best of what’s around!

I did find mineral makeup more breathable than their predecessors, but it still felt heavier than I was accustomed to.

At the time that I set out to develop my Natural Anti-Aging Foundation Set, I had come to love Jane Iredales’s Amazing Base and Afterglow Cosmetics’ Organic Mineral Foundation. I had tried countless other mineral makeups, and these are in my opinion, some of the best of what’s around.  But still, keeping my skin hydrated even while wearing drying mineral powders was a bit of a challenge.

I wanted to create a makeup product that didn’t just make my skin look better while wearing it, but also acted as a skin care product, so that even when I am not wearing the foundation the quality of my skin is improved.  This Foundation Set may take some getting used to for some, as it’s quite unlike anything else on the market. Which is why I’ve just recorded a new video to show you how and why it may be worth a try.

Here are a couple popular ingredients that seemed more like they might be in cosmetic containers than the actual products (if anywhere!):

• Polystyrene: which is also known as one of the most widely used types of plastic is commonly used for containers of food, chemicals and solvents. And if not recycled can take centuries to biodegrade. But I also spotted it in a facial cleanser, lip gloss and various hair products.
• Polyethylene: otherwise known as the plastic used grocery and shopping bags, is also known for it’s slowness to biodegrade, as without exposure to UV sunlight, the process can take hundreds of years. That said, guess where I spotted this ingredient–in lists on several long wearing or waterproof eyeliners. Note: polyethylene can be produced from non-petroleum sources, but I’m assuming that the cosmetic companies are as usual going with the cheap stuff in an effort to cut corners.

I found these ingredients listed in products from both department and drug store brands.

Bottom line, stick with brands you trust, and before you trust a brand, do a thorough assessment of the range of ingredients that they use/consider safe for you to be putting in your hair, on your skin, and on your mucus membranes (lips/eyes).

Here are a few ingredients that I hear people mention all the time, and wince when I realize are in eye makeups, underarm deodorants and other products that wind up getting absorbed by the body or making their way into our mucus membranes:

Neem Oil–This oil, which I spotted in some former favorite holistic eye makeup products is often used for its antibacterial properties, which would be especially important in an eye product, as these can be breeding grounds for bacteria. But is the cost worth the benefit? Neem oil can be damaging to organs such as the liver and kidneys, and should especially not be used during pregnancy, as it has been shown to produce damage to organs vital to maintaining pregnancy, and ingestion of more than 5ml has lead to death in infants.

Tea Tree Oil–Often seen in products like natural deodorants, tea tree oil is used for its anti-fungal and anti-microbial properties. But some common side effects include skin reactions such as itching, rash or worsened eczema. While too large of topical doses can cause poor muscle coordination and even difficulty walking, but worse yet, when taken orally, this ingredient can cause severe reactions ranging from hallucinations to coma. Tea tree oil should also not be used during pregnancy, or by children, as hormonal abnormalities like enlarged breasts in prepubescent boys has been shown to occur.

Carmine–Considered one of nature’s only “true reds,” this pigment is made from grinding up the abdomens of cochineal (beetle). But not only is it not a cruelty-free ingredient, but also a common skin irritant. And when used as a food dye, this natural red has even caused such severe allergic reactions in some such as anaphylactic shock.

A few weeks ago I posted about my surprise at finding a mascara (Physicians Formula: Organic Wear Mascara) that actually appears to be natural and gluten-free. So the ingredients passed the test, but my trials did not.

I’ve now used the mascara many times, but also gone back to other favorites to compare, and here are my findings:

• Flakes: While the mascara seems very light at first, it is buildable, so after a few coats I’m pretty pleased with the results. I am not however thrilled with its long range wearability. By the end of the workday I found that it would tend to flake and smudge.
• Irritates: I gave it several attempts, but my findings were pretty consistent, in that the mascara seemed to cause my eyes to water after applying it. Time after time it made my eyes tear up and feel like crying.

So ultimately I’m placing an order right now for more of Afterglow Cosmetics’ Pure Soul Mascara. I would prefer if it did not contain grapefruit extract, but this very common natural preservative has been used in and considered safe by Chinese and Ayurvedic medicine for thousands of years.

Physicians Formula: Organic Wear Mascara

Ingredients(in layman’s terms): Orange Hydrosol, glycerin, iron oxide, microcrystalline cellulose (cellulose fibers), glyceryl stearate (more glycerin), water, beeswax, jojoba esters, tapioca starch, carnauba wax, stearic acid (fatty acid often from animal source), glyceryl caprylate (glycerin and caprylic acid), aloe juice, cellulose gum, cucumber extract, soybean oil (probably a form or Vitamin E for preserving), hydrolyzed rice protein, radish root ferment filtrate (from fermented radishes, antimicrobial), magnesium aluminum silicate (mineral derived complex silicate), olive leaf extract. May contain: titanium dioxide.

The good news, is that all ingredients appear to be gluten-free, and none of of the ingredients appear to be from our list of the Top 10 Toxic Ingredients. And generally, this appears to be a safer mascara product.

What I don’t like is that it contains water, as water breeds bacteria, so when water is in a formula, preservatives are more vital. But they do seem to do a good job of using natural preservatives like Vitamin E rich soybean oil, and antimicroial radish rood ferment filtrate, and antibacterial, antifungal olive leaf extract and stay completely away from nasty parabens. And while I also do not love that they use stearic acid which can come from animal sources, the fact that the product is cruelty-free leads me to believe that in this case, it is a plant source.

So, I gave it a shot. It doesn’t seem very different from most mascaras, but it also didn’t make quite the impact that I am accustomed to. I was, however, able to build the coverage to a point that I felt comfortable with. And I actually prefer the firm plastic, recyclable brush.

As yet, I would say that it’s a great buy. So only one thing left to check–what does EWG say about it?

I was unable to find the product already in their database, so here are the results of a report generated when I manually entered the ingredients–I’m actually pretty pleased. The Magnesium Aluminum Silicate came up with a rating of 4, bringing the score up to a 3, and there were some 2s, 1s, and 0s, but for a mass-market product that is under $15, I’m pretty darn impressed!

We are fortunate to live in a time in which the cosmetic industry is feeling the force of the customer and turning away from the popular lab-concocted chemical formulas of the 70s and 80s to produce safer natural makeup.

And while mineral makeups you see on TV may be free of parabens and irritating preservatives, if you’ve tried them on your skin, they don’t exactly feel as “hydrating,” “calming” or as “healthy” as they claim to be.

In this day and age, however, as a consumer, you should expect more.  After all, a foundation can actually be hydrating, anti-aging and made from only safe, natural ingredients.  But these products may have a shelf life.  So the question for you is this:

Are you willing to use a natural product that might expire in 6 months if it really is good for your skin and feels great on?

For info. on how to try to score these glosses for your group, please visit: http://glutenfreebeauty.com/blog/gluten-free-lip-gloss-giveaway

100% natural and gluten-free, they won’t dry, chap or addict your lips, but they may leave your beau vying for more gluten-free kisses!

As a tween I thought that a good facial routine meant wash, tone and spot treat.  But as I’ve gotten older, I’ve invested more in good cleansers and moisturizers than astringents or toners.

I have tried a few out here and there over the past few years, and recently decided to give
100% Pure Organic Peppermint Green Tea Facial Toner
a try.

It immediately surprised me since it has no alcohol, but has the same cool “burn” of the Windex colored toners of my past.  But whether or not it anti-ages, brightens, protects and repairs as recommended is still to be determined.  I’ll keep you posted!

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